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A Blue House in the Midst of a Concrete Jungle: La Casa de Frida

by planetnomad on July 9, 2010

Possibly one of the most arresting enclaves for artsy and intellectual types, Coyoacán sits a mere metro ride south of Mexico City’s buzz and congestion.  Known for its narrow streets surfaced in cobblestone, its lively plazas and coffee shops, and its numerous museums, this neighborhood is home to a striking house that blankets its visitors in a bucolic blue and a splash of wonder.

Fixed at the corner of Londres & Allende, the Frida Kahlo Museum, or “La Casa Azul”, with a charming, yet melancholic feel, served as the artist’s sanctuary throughout her short life.  It is here that she painted, loved and coped with her physical and mental struggles.  It is here, where she taught students, hosted dignitaries and shared her love with famed Mexican muralist Diego Rivera.  It is also here where she found courtyards in which to absorb her introspective inspiration and produce some works that are considered to be among the most significant among the Mexican surrealists.

"Viva La Vida" by Frida Kahlo

Home to exiled émigré Leon Trotsky for a brief stint, a tour of the u-shaped house takes the visitor through rooms set in the time period and highlights some of Frida’s work, including her prominent piece, “Viva La Vida”.  It also houses a collection of her personal jewelry, diary entries, self-portraits, ex-voto (religious) paintings and works by others such as Rivera and Paul Klee.

After touring the house and its contents, any visitor should spend some time at the café and enjoy a reflective moment in the property’s courtyard with its shady embrace and steady stock of potted plants.  Here, it becomes easy to appreciate the seclusion and beauty that must have aided the artist in coping with her perpetual emotional and physical pain.

So, for just a short hop from the city center, the visitor can find respite from the madness and engage in a setting sure to rattle the spirits, while providing a deep sense of art history, unequal to others.  La Casa Azul Te Espera!  The Blue House Awaits!

Museum Information

Located at Londres 247, Colonia del Carmen Coyoacán, Mexico City

Open:  Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-6pm

General Admission price:  $55.00 (MXN) (Fee includes admission to Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum)

Getting There

Take the Green (#3) Metro line south towards Universidad, or end of the line.  Get off at Viveros or Coyoacán. From there, it’s either a 20-minute walk, or you can take a taxi or local bus.

Other Places of Interest in Coyoacán

Viveros de Coyoacán

Plaza Hidalgo

Leon Trotsky Museum (Av. Río Churubusco No. 410)

Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum (in Colonia de San Pedro Tepetapa)

Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares

Useful websites

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