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A Blue House in the Midst of a Concrete Jungle: La Casa de Frida

by planetnomad on July 9, 2010

Possibly one of the most arresting enclaves for artsy and intellectual types, Coyoacán sits a mere metro ride south of Mexico City’s buzz and congestion.  Known for its narrow streets surfaced in cobblestone, its lively plazas and coffee shops, and its numerous museums, this neighborhood is home to a striking house that blankets its visitors in a bucolic blue and a splash of wonder.

Fixed at the corner of Londres & Allende, the Frida Kahlo Museum, or “La Casa Azul”, with a charming, yet melancholic feel, served as the artist’s sanctuary throughout her short life.  It is here that she painted, loved and coped with her physical and mental struggles.  It is here, where she taught students, hosted dignitaries and shared her love with famed Mexican muralist Diego Rivera.  It is also here where she found courtyards in which to absorb her introspective inspiration and produce some works that are considered to be among the most significant among the Mexican surrealists.

"Viva La Vida" by Frida Kahlo

Home to exiled émigré Leon Trotsky for a brief stint, a tour of the u-shaped house takes the visitor through rooms set in the time period and highlights some of Frida’s work, including her prominent piece, “Viva La Vida”.  It also houses a collection of her personal jewelry, diary entries, self-portraits, ex-voto (religious) paintings and works by others such as Rivera and Paul Klee.

After touring the house and its contents, any visitor should spend some time at the café and enjoy a reflective moment in the property’s courtyard with its shady embrace and steady stock of potted plants.  Here, it becomes easy to appreciate the seclusion and beauty that must have aided the artist in coping with her perpetual emotional and physical pain.

So, for just a short hop from the city center, the visitor can find respite from the madness and engage in a setting sure to rattle the spirits, while providing a deep sense of art history, unequal to others.  La Casa Azul Te Espera!  The Blue House Awaits!

Museum Information

Located at Londres 247, Colonia del Carmen Coyoacán, Mexico City

Open:  Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-6pm

General Admission price:  $55.00 (MXN) (Fee includes admission to Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum)

Getting There

Take the Green (#3) Metro line south towards Universidad, or end of the line.  Get off at Viveros or Coyoacán. From there, it’s either a 20-minute walk, or you can take a taxi or local bus.

Other Places of Interest in Coyoacán

Viveros de Coyoacán

Plaza Hidalgo

Leon Trotsky Museum (Av. Río Churubusco No. 410)

Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum (in Colonia de San Pedro Tepetapa)

Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares

Useful websites

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{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Globetrottergirls July 12, 2010 at 10:05 am

Wonderful post! We are both huge fans of Frida and will visit Casa Azul tomorrow… your post makes us look forward to that even more 🙂

planetnomad July 12, 2010 at 7:52 pm

Thanks for your comment! I’m sure you guys will enjoy seeing her house! It’s a special place and Coyoacan is also worth spending some time getting to know as well!

Ashley July 16, 2010 at 12:54 pm

Love it Mark! Thus far, you posts have convinced me that I need to move Mexico City close to the top of my must-visit list 🙂 After this post, the candy street in Puebla, and those high flying men, I’m dying to visit.

planetnomad July 17, 2010 at 10:36 am

Thanks Ashley for your comment. It’s always a pleasure to see you visiting MU! Oh, Mexico City was a very pleasant surprise for me during my first visit. I just got hooked from that point! If I ever have the opportunity to call myself an “ex-pat”….THAT’S where you’ll find me!

Jen Laceda July 17, 2010 at 1:48 pm

Ever since I saw Frida (my fave movie), I am so fascinated with Frida Kahlo the artist and the woman. When I go to Mexico City, this is tops on my list!

planetnomad July 17, 2010 at 11:09 pm

@ Jen: Yeah, it’s a great movie and sad as well because of all the pain and suffering she went through in life. Her museum is tastefully done and in one of the best, artsy & historical neighborhoods (Coyoacan) of Mexico City…it definitely deserves a visit! Thanks again for stopping by MU!

Sarah V. July 27, 2010 at 8:31 pm

I love finding neighborhoods like this. You turn a corner or two and it’s like you’re in a whole different world. Now I have yet another place to add to my travel wishlist…thanks for sharing!

My background is in art history, so if (when!) I make it to Mexico City someday, the Frida Kahlo Museum will definitely be a part of my itinerary.

planetnomad July 27, 2010 at 9:31 pm

Thank you Sarah for stopping by MU…it’s great to see you here! Wow, with your art history background, visiting Frida’s museum would be a perfect fit, plus, there’s so much more to Mexico City than what we read about all the time. Glad you enjoyed!

ciki July 29, 2010 at 12:02 am

“Viva La Vida” looks so life-like i swear i could chop it! LOL.. great post mark!

planetnomad July 29, 2010 at 9:29 am

Great to see you on here Ciki! Love your “chop it” comment about Frida’s “Viva La Vida” piece! Yeah, I thought a fellow foodie such as yourself might appreciate the gorgeous-looking watermelon Frida produced for us…LOL! I am also a HUGE watermelon fan…it just might be my favorite! Thanks again for hanging out and sharing your comments!

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