In spite of being the capital city of the smallest Mexican state by the same name, Tlaxcala (pronounced Tlas-ka-lah) is big on things to see and do. One of its best draws is its proximity to Mexico City. The trip takes about one and a half to two hours and rewards the visitor with sweeping meadows, wooded backdrops and close-ups of a potentially smoking Popocatépetl in the neighboring state of Puebla. Once there, the compactness and grid layout make for simple navigating.

Active volcano Popocatépetl

The city center is not unlike other colonial towns in Mexico with its charming Zócalo, porticoed buildings, colonial architecture and ubiquitous churches. For a well-rounded and complete visit, the following points of interest are suggested and shouldn’t be missed.

Palacio de Gobierno

Several government palaces in cities across Mexico are home to beautiful murals depicting some historical scene and most of them were produced by highly recognized artists. This one, dating back to 1545, is no exception. The murals on the walls of this structure were painted by the famed Tlaxcalan muralist Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin and present a perfect starting point from which to embrace and appreciate the history of Tlaxcala spanning several centuries.

Palacio de Gobierno

Mural by Tlaxcalan muralist Desiderio Hernández Xochitiotzin

Portal Hidalgo

This lengthy arched walkway dates back to the 16th century and is directly east of the main Zócalo. Though back in the colonial days it served as a place for the exchange of goods from overseas, nowadays, it houses the city offices along with numerous retail shops and outdoor eateries.

Portal Hidalgo

Palacio de la Cultura

A stately structure built in 1950 as the headquarters of the Institute for Advanced Studies in the state of Tlaxcala, it’s easy to pick out with its signature red brick and grey cantera façade, plus its French-inspired front gate.

Palacio de la Cultura

Capilla de San Nicolás Tolentino

One of many churches found throughout the city of Tlaxcala, this one is a combination of old and new. The old part dates back to the 16th century and still has its original stonework and overlooks a small, manicured garden while the newer construction is splashed in a pale mauve color and has a couple of domed cupolas visible from distant parts of the city.

Capilla de San Nicolás Tolentino

Capilla de San Nicolás Tolentino's cupolas as seen from a distance

Teatro Xicohténcatl

A multipurpose theater dating back to the second half of the 19th century, its neoclassic façade is displayed in an impressive grey cantera stone. Inside, you can admire the “Muses” mural done by John Fulton.

Teatro Xicohténcatl

Parroquia de San José

This hard-to-miss complex awash in a terrific orange-mango color with domes topped off in blue Talavera tile gives the city an eternal light and spills forth an impressive exterior design in Baroque fashion. Inside, there’s an illustrious image of the Virgin of Guadalupe assembled out of seashells.

Parroquia de San José

Plaza Xicohténcatl

Named in honor of Xicohténcatl Axayacatzin, the Tlaxcalan warrior who fought against the Spanish conquerors and later would become an ally against the Aztecs, this lazy, little square is directly southeast of Plaza de La Constitución. It’s bound by restaurants, the Museo de la Memoria as well as the famed Pulquería La Tia Yola.

Plaza Xicohténcatl

Ex-Convento Franciscano de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora

One of the first convents to be established in the Americas between 1524 & 1540, it houses the Regional Museum of Tlaxcala and is a short walk from Plaza Xicohténcatl. It is also the site where the area’s original inhabitants became baptized in Catholicism.

Bell tower of Ex-Convento Franciscano de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora

Plaza de Toros Jorge “El Ranchero” Aguilar

This is one of Mexico’s most picturesque bullfighting arenas named after one of its beloved “toreros”, bullfighters. Its original construction dates back to the late 18th century and was renovated in the 1950’s. The adjacent Franciscan bell tower at its perimeter provides an unequal setting, especially at sunset.

Plaza de Toros Jorge "El Ranchero” Aguilar

Other Points of Interest

• Escalinata de los Héroes
• Capilla Real de Indios
• Plaza de la Constitución
• Museo de la Memoria
• Museo de Arte de Tlaxcala

Getting Here

By Bus:  ATAH (Autotransportes Tlaxcala Apizaco Huamantla) line departs every 15-20 minutes from Mexico City’s Tapo Terminal. Trip takes approximately 1.5 – 2 hours and costs around 115 MXN Pesos.

Mexico Unmasked is proud to announce its recent two-year anniversary on June 10, 2012! It appreciates its readership and has enjoyed the trip along the way!
It would also like to share that after a brief gap in producing new content, it is now proudly based out of Mexico City. The format and nature of the content will remain the same, with a focus on culture, food, history and of course the people of Mexico!

As always, thanks for the continued support and please feel free stay in touch!

Mark Mendiola Guerra

Pachuca, the capital city of the state of Hidalgo is only 85 km from Mexico City, but you never hear of it as a destination place or one where tourists spend much time. This could be, unfortunately, the result of its close proximity to the larger, cosmopolitan and cultural neighbor to the south. Sure it may lack the sophistication, elegance, charm & architecture el ‘De Efe’ possesses, but if you draw in closer, you’ll find a city with a distinct regional history, that to this day is evident in a lot of ways.

Pachuca, popularly known as ‘la bella airosa’, for its cool, evening gusts which pack a punch, is no slouch when it comes to presenting its signature charm and history. The architecture may not be a uniform colonial canvas, but there are more than just hints of Spanish & English influence throughout. In fact, the British from Cornwall spent a good deal of time here in the mid-nineteenth century when the area silver mines were operating at full throttle and they were part of the whole industry. The following is a partial list of the numerous things to see in this overshadowed city in central Mexico.

MINING MUSEUM & HISTORIC ARCHIVES

Because of Pachuca’s historical tie to the mining industry, this is the perfect starting point from which to appreciate the area’s early days and importance in this part of Mexican history. The museum is housed in a dated, yet grand neoclassical structure. Inside you’ll see detailed accounts of the history and progression of the mining industry. Its evolution, from the Colonial days to the different parties (Mexican, English & U.S.) in charge of operations, the entire time period is laid out. There is also access to the historical archives for research purposes with the proper credentials and pre-arrangements secured.

Historic Archives and Mining Museum

EX-CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO

Fixed at the corner of Morelos and Arista since the 15^th century, this divine building displays a refined and detailed façade of incomparable Baroque splendor. When the barefoot Friar monks (los Frailes Descalzos) built this convent, they spared no detail, including the interior devotional paintings framed in a Churrigueresque fashion.

Temple and Ex-Convent of San Francisco

RELOJ MONUMENTAL

Plazas or central gathering spaces are not unique throughout Mexico. They all have their lush landscaping, comfortable seating and the occasional gazebo. But, how many can boast of having a 40-meter high clock tower made of Carrara marble with the inner workings manufactured by the same company that fabricated London’s Big Ben, as their center piece? None! But, in Pachuca, the ‘Reloj Monumental’ has graced its Plaza de la Independencia for over a hundred years now. It was initially gifted to the city as a way to commemorate the centennial anniversary of the Mexican Revolution. Inarguably, now it has become the city’s iconic symbol and lends an entirely different feel to the usual Mexican plaza.

El Reloj Monumental

EL MUSEO DE LA FOTOGRAFIA (MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY)

Housed in a portion of the Ex-Convent of San Francisco, this museum provides an impressive array of vintage cameras and equipment as well as over 900,000 images which span over 160 years of history in Mexico’s photographic journey. Included in these images is an archival collection of the famed Mexican photographer, Agustín Víctor Casasola, whose work captured early 20^th century Mexico from political, religious, revolutionary and everyday life.

CASA RULE

Former mansion of the wealthy Cornish Miner, Francis ‘Francisco’ Rule, this spectacular structure has stood since 1896 and has served numerous functions under its English-style architecture. After serving as Mr. Rule’s residence and business base for many years, the state of Hidalgo acquired control of it in 1942 and then it housed its administrative offices there. Then, in 1985 it became home to Pachuca’s Ayuntamiento, ‘city hall’, a function it serves to date.

PARQUE HIDALGO

Situated on Madero Avenue near the Temple of San Francisco, this park provides plenty of green space as well as play areas for children. One of the identifying features of Parque Hidalgo is the unique ‘earthy’ clock that’s built into the ground and graced with colorful flowers.

Parque Hidalgo

MUNDO FUTBOL Y SALON DE LA FAMA

It’s quite fitting that here, in the birthplace of Mexican soccer, Pachuca has an opportunity to share some history and details of the sport with visitors. Recently opened in the summer of 2011, the museum is impossible to miss, especially if coming in on the highway from Mexico City where you’ll see the giant soccer ball with stairs winding around it near Parque David Ben Gurión. With over 51 interactive exhibits, a 3-D theatre and volumes of text dedicated to the world’s greatest players, even those unacquainted with the sport may become converts.

OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST

Edificio las Cajas Reales

Teatro de la Ciudad San Francisco

Templo Metodista

Edificio Bancomer

Edificio Central U.A.E.H

Mercado Benito Juárez

Mercado Barreteros

Jardín del Arte

Estadio Hidalgo

Plaza Juárez

Monumento de Cristo Rey

Bandera Monumental

POPULAR FOODS IN PACHUCA

Barbacoa (Slow-roasted lamb wrapped in maguey leaves & made in earthen pits)

Pastes (Baked turnovers with a variety of fillings introduced by Cornish miners)

Mixiote (Variety of hot & spicy meats steamed in maguey leaves)

Escamoles (Ant larvae, a true delicacy for some)

Chinicuiles (Reddish worms found near the maguey roots)

DAY TRIPS FROM PACHUCA

Real del Monte (Pueblo Mágico)

Huasca de Ocampo

Prismas Basálticos

Parque Nacional El Chico

GETTING HERE

Buses depart the north terminal (Terminal del Norte) in Mexico City. Flecha Roja provides departures every 10 minutes for 71 MXN pesos. Other bus lines frequently run between Mexico City and Pachuca. Check here for additional transportation information.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

http://www.visitahidalgo.com/

http://www.hidalgo.gob.mx/

http://municipiodepachucadesoto.com/

Packed into a three-story flat in Mexico City’s Colonia Doctores is a history lesson waiting to be taught. Only two blocks from the Obrera Metro station, directly off the Eje Central, sits one of the world’s largest collections of toys and Mexican pop culture around. The items were collected by one individual, who to this day, insists that his 40,000 plus exhibit contains more than an assemblage of items, and if inspected carefully, details an account of Mexican history through playful objects.

Trained architect, Roberto Shimizu, opened the MUJAM (Museo del Juguete Antiguo Mexico) in 2006 in hopes of helping Mexicans and people in general, reconnect with a past that’s quickly disappearing in the age of the digital culture. In 1955, at the age of ten, Mr. Shimizu began collecting toys and never looked back. Later on, he would travel to Europe, Japan, and all over Mexico to acquire a variety of items, mostly used toys which were produced by anonymous artists. “Most of these toys depict what daily life was like for a lot of people and the fact that they’ve been played with means they carry those ‘good vibes’ of the children”, shares Mr. Shimizu.

Spread over three levels in the flat his father built, the MUJAM showcases only 5% of the collector’s entire million-plus pieces. Items are organically arranged throughout four wings or ‘salas’ and displayed in recycled products which Mr. Shimizu himself, restored and repurposed. In the first wing, you’ll encounter globes, lunch boxes, a vintage jukebox with toys from the era displayed inside it, and you’ll also find toy cars from the Japanese toymaker “Tomica”. Sala two is usually reserved for traveling exhibits and recently had an extensive private collection of Barbies as well as a colorful and nostalgic array of “Cantinflas” memorabilia. The last two wings, three and four, display several Mexican toys as well as wooden toy guns, drums, oversized metal cars, and locomotives.

With such an array of toys, there’s ample opportunity for everyone to discover and connect with something. And, as Mr. Shimizu was quoted recently in a BBC Mundo interview, the contents of the MUJAM represent “keys to unlocking forgotten archives full of magical and fun moments.”

One might ask if in the midst of this digital age we live in this type of museum would resonate with the youth of today. Mr. Shimizu assures that the appeal is far more general than one would suspect. “A lot of these are one-of-a-kind items which were made in Mexico during a time when creative output was at its height. Adults who stroll through definitely connect with a bygone era, but, surprisingly, even high school kids seem to be drawn in, and for that, I’m happy to share this collection.”

MUJAM exterior

Whatever the feelings you might possess about the MUJAM’s relevance in today’s world, one thing clearly becomes evident, a tip of the hat is in order for Mr. Shimizu who maintains that the window into a slice of history has drawn in general interest, and for that, must remain open.

Mexicounmasked.com would like to thank the entire staff for the hospitable welcome during a recent visit.

IMPORTANT INFO

ADDRESS
Dr. Olvera #15, Colonia Doctores
Delegación Cuauhtémoc
Mexico City, D.F. 06720

ADMISSION/HOURS
Entrance Fee:  50.00 Mxn.
Hours:  Mon-Fri, 9-6PM
Sat, 9-4PM
Sun, 10-4PM

CONTACT INFO
Tel:  5588-2100
Email:  museodeljugueteantiguomex@gmail.com
Website: museodeljuguete.mx
Twitter:  @MuseodelJuguete
Official Facebook Page – http://www.facebook.com/museodeljuguete

LINKS
Berkeley Graduate School of Journalism Documentary Video – “A Mexican Toy Story” – by Alba Mora Roca

At three pesos for a single ride, Mexico City’s Metro is more than just an affordable deal. It presents an opportunity to be adventurous and traverse parts of its staggering sprawl to encounter wonderful surprises. With more than 150 stations crisscrossing the varied neighborhoods, there’s something to be found in each of them.

The San Cosme Metro station in colonia Santa María la Ribera is a perfect spot to encounter one of these “wonderful surprises”. Not too many blocks from this Station is the structure that’s come to be tied to the identity of this neighborhood just west of the Centro. Many refer to it as the “Mexican Alhambra” but, it’s best known as “El Kiosco”. It’s the grand and finely detailed Moorish Kiosk that’s been fixed here since 1910.

Designed by the engineer Ramón Ibarrola, it was constructed for Mexico’s participation in the 1884 New Orleans World’s Fair. Later, in 1904, it would be disassembled, crated and shipped again to the States where it would represent Mexico at the St. Louis World’s Fair.

Upon its return to Mexico City it was reassembled and given a home in the City’s green space of the Alameda. It sat there, directly across the Ex-Convent of Corpus Christi. It remained there until 1910 when it was placed in colonia Santa María la Ribera, its current location.

This structure, more than just a pleasant “discovery” near some Metro stop,  represents an era when World Fairs predominated the international landscape and helped bridge unity and partnering across borders. It captures a spirit and level of tolerance for countries’ uniqueness that, sadly, may never be witnessed again. In spite of this, it behooves us as travelers and stewards of history to remind the younger generations to appreciate relics of the past and dig deeper into the story of their existence for the invaluable lessons captured.

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.

The year-end always serves as a convenient point for analysis or self-appraisal of past successes and failures. Mexico, in terms of tourism, had some lofty goals in 2011, even prompting President Calderon to designate it, “El Año del Turismo” or, The Year of Tourism. Several strategies were utilized by the Mexican government in attempts to reign in the irresponsible media coverage of its country and highlight the good versus the bad. The president, himself, even embarked on a multi-week journey of his country with a well-known journalist by his side. This, along with the Secretary of Tourism’s whirlwind tour of state after state to promote each region’s unique offerings, leaves no doubt the effort was well-placed.

In addition to this multi-prong strategy, Mexico continued with its decade-long “Pueblos Magicos” campaign. Being part of the program, which to date covers over 48 towns, is one of the highest distinctions and honors any Mexican Town or village can receive from the Secretary of Tourism.

The program is not designed to rescue “dying” areas or those in need of economic stimulus. Rather, these places are selected based on a community’s ongoing successful track record of maintaining and preserving its unique architecture and vibrant, cultural identity. This year, 11 towns were added to this list of distinction and include the following:

•    Palizada, Campeche
•    Mineral del Chico, Hidalgo
•    San Sebastián del Oeste, Jalisco
•    Tlayacapan, Morelos
•    El Oro, Mexico
•    Zacatlán de las Manzanas, Puebla
•    Cadereyta de Montes, Querétaro
•    Xilitla, San Luis Potosí
•    Tula, Tamaulipas
•    Xico, Veracruz
•    Teul González Ortega, Zacatecas

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.

While Mexico City is flush with the ever-popular haunts for visitors, sometimes it’s nice to step away from these spots and take in a different side of this urban wonder. Not far north of the Centro Histórico is a place where you can do just that. And, if you’re a bibliophile or fancy cool, modern architecture, consider yourself even luckier because Biblioteca Vasconcelos will satisfy both passions. Built in 2006 during the Fox Administration, this library is named after one of the City’s well-respected philosophers and educators, José Vasconcelos. Its impressive design was the brainchild of Mexican architect Alberto Kalach.

THE STRUCTURE

Just walking distance from the “Buena Vista” Metro stop, the library is a complex of three buildings in alignment with another. From the exterior they seem like your typical concrete, metal and glass office structures, but once inside the arrangement of space, light and flow of the building smacks of modern architectural ingenuity. The first thing you’ll notice is the cantilevered shelving that forms a cascading effect of books suspended throughout the central portion of the structure. This effect clearly stamps its signature on this impressive work by Kalach.

At different intervals spanning the eight floors, there are “viewing” spots where you can carefully gaze at the inner core of the library without any obstructions whatsoever. It’s here, where even an untrained eye, can appreciate the play of light, symmetry and architectural engineering at its best. If all this wasn’t impressive enough and once you’re settled in and beyond the “wow” factor of the interior, there are also terraces on several levels with great views of the City’s skyline, especially the ones facing west, capturing a great sunset.

Evening view from one of the upper terraces

SERVICES

Bookstore

Facilities for dance, theatre and film

Space for concerts, conferences, classes and art expositions

Multimedia, children’s and music areas

Periodicals

Auditorium

Inter-library borrowing system

FAST FACTS^**

Area:  41,288 square meters distributed over eight levels

Garden area:  26,000 square meters including over 168 species of vegetation

Library holdings:  In excess of 1.5 million books

Computers with internet access:  617

Study areas:  4000

Auditorium seating capacity:  498

** Facts courtesy of CONACULTA & Biblioteca Vasconcelos

GETTING HERE

Located in the colonia “Buena Vista”, near the corner of Eje 1 Norte Mosqueta & Aldama.

Near the “Buena Vista” Metro station

IMPORTANT INFO

OPEN:  Daily, 8:30am-7:30pm

WEBSITE:  www.bibliotecavasconcelos.gob.mx

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.

There are many things to see and do in the colonial city of Zacatecas. Discovering hidden walkways, gazing up at the Cathedral’s Baroque details, zipping up the funicular to the Bufa or visiting the multitude of museums featuring everything from modern art to revolutionary history, this former silver mining giant completes the package. But, to leave here and not visit the impressive Museo Rafael Coronel is to forgo an opportunity to peek inside a museum showcasing one of Mexico’s finest collections of masks in addition to its extensive folk art with origins from all parts of the country .

Named for one of Zacatecas’ leading artists and distinguished sons, this museum contains vast works which Coronel bequeathed to the city. Some estimate that he took over forty years to amass such a sizeable collection.

The museum is divided into eight “Salas” or wings, and provides an exceptional overview of Mexican history through the eyes of a folk art historian.

Sala 1, called “Templo Capilla de San Antonio”, has numerous art pieces by Coronel himself. Sala 2 contains several city documents of Zacatecas dating back to the Spanish Royalty. There are “cedulas” or Royal decrees and the official coat of arms of Zacatecas, all authorized under King Phillip II in the late 1500’s. Sala 3 has a wide variety of pre-Hispanic terracotta bowls and other utensils which were used for ceremonial, as well as utilitarian uses such as cooking.

In Sala 4, one finds several “títeres”, or puppets which were created by Antonio Rosete and Maria de la Luz Aranda. The displays capture everything from a bullfight to military scenes from the Revolution. Sala 5, or the “Sala de Ruth Rivera” is named after Coronel’s wife, the daughter of Diego Rivera. Here, one sees several of Rivera’s architectural sketches, doodles and line drawings which he generated during his younger days. In Sala 6, there are numerous pre-Hispanic pieces such as instruments, sculptures, utensils, and miniature terracotta figurines. Sala de Arte Popular or Sala 7 has several creations originating from diverse parts of Mexico including musical instruments and paintings to name just a few.

Of course the different wings to this museum provide a wealth of historical information and entertainment for the visitor, but it’s Sala 8, or Sala de Mascaras, which garners the most attention. It is here, among the 10,000-plus stock of masks, where visitors come away in awe and with a genuine appreciation for the historical depth of the varied ethnic groups found throughout Mexico. This exhibit is laid out in eight different categories which include:

La Conquista

Moros y Cristianos

La Diablada

Las Pastorelas

Las Danzas

Mascaras Indigenas

El Mundo Fantastico de las Mascaras

Los Animales

Inspecting the bulk of space taken up by these masks, it becomes no surprise why most people refer to this museum simply as, “El Museo de las Mascaras”. If all this wasn’t enough, these artistic treasures are all housed on the well-maintained grounds of the 16^th century Convent of San Francisco, a resting spot for traveling Franciscans headed north during those early days.

IMPORTANT INFO

Open daily from 10am-4:30pm, closed Wednesdays

Entrance fee: 30 pesos

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.

If New York goes by the title of, “The City That Never Sleeps”, Mexico City can easily and aptly be called “The City That Always Entertains”. Any tourist visiting this mega city is easily challenged by the overwhelming number of things to see and do. Once one realizes that the area encompassed by the sprawl of this cosmopolitan city is even larger than the island country of Grenada, it becomes apparent that even extended periods of time spent here will not suffice.

However, in spite of its broad reach, the capital city’s 16 boroughs are easily navigable by public transportation and aid the visitor in accessing most of its attractions. Here is a mere fraction of the multitude of places to see in this historic, yet modern metropolis.

Museo Nacional de Antropología

Probably tops on the list of “must-see” places, this museum rivals the world’s greats for its collections and layout. Located on the northern reaches of the famed Chapultepec Park, it provides visitors with extensive exhibit space featuring all the epic milestones in Mexico’s history from its pre-conquest days to the Colonial times that are still evident through this city’s historic architecture.

Zócalo

One of the largest in the world, this public square plays host to numerous events, including the annual Independence Day “El Grito”, where the sitting president addresses the masses from the balcony of the Palacio Nacional. Here, he moves them to recall the country’s storied and proud history. There is no better place to connect with the inner soul of this city and witness the activity that pulses through its concrete corridors.

Plaza Garibaldi

A mere metro stop north of the Alameda Park, this small plaza secures itself as a magnet for the “working” mariachi. At all times of the day, and especially into the night, mariachis are seen milling around negotiating gigs or impressing paying visitors with their baritone voices and personal renditions of traditional Mexican favorites. With a few eateries and a couple of storied mariachi bars, this is surely a place to grab a drink and capture some true cultural vibes.

A mariachi on the way to work in Plaza Garibaldi

Templo Mayor

Found in the city’s historic center, the ancient city-state of Tenochtitlán remains the spot to pay witness to Mexico City’s Aztec origins. It’s here where some of the unearthed ruins from that era are on display for public viewing. There is also a museum on site which houses an extensive collection of pre-Hispanic artwork and other “finds” reclaimed from the earth during excavations for the routing and layout of public transportation lines.

Frida Khalo Museum

The famous blue house or “Casa Azul” in the borough of Coyoacán should be on the itinerary of any lover of Mexican Surrealism. The house features some of the artist’s most prominent work and displays period furnishings popular during the time she occupied the residence.

La "Casa Azul"

Mercado de la Merced

Occupying several city blocks southeast of the zócalo, this market provides a variety of food products and domestic essentials. Whether it’s finely cleaned and cut cactus paddles, spices, meats, candies, shoes or piñatas, an overwhelming array of products is sure to entice market aficionados at this place. There’s also an extensive selection of informal and super budget-friendly eateries scattered throughout.

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.

It’s not new or uncommon to see the works of a great master painter or singer reach the heights of popularity once they are gone and no longer with us. Their body of work, whether an image that’s reprinted for mass consumption or a well-penned song that endures the radio waves, leaves no doubt, that in death, some artists and their creations achieve veneration like never before.

The prolific Mexican artist, José Guadalupe Posada, whose famous “calavera” drawings have become the signature image for Mexico’s Día de los Muertos, is one artist who fits this mold perfectly. Though Posada achieved some level of attention as a lithographer and illustrator during his living years, and even managed to later influence two of Mexico’s best known muralists in Rivera and Orozco, he never quite seemed to break out of his commercial niche and even died broke and was buried in a pauper cemetery at the very end.

"La Calavera Catrina"

Born in Aguascalientes in 1852, the artist grew into his own at an early age and pursued his innate talents and honed his skills of lithography and printmaking under the watchful eye of mentor, José Trinidad Pedroza. During his apprenticeship, Posada learned lithographic techniques as well as how to print on wood and metal. These skills would serve him well in creating impressions for a wide variety of commercial projects such as personal business logos and book cover designs. He even used his illustrative skills to help “capture the story” behind the political instability and social inequalities of the time.  His images aided the illiterate and less fortunate to engage in and understand the issues of the day.

Posada’s work to highlight and inform his fellow citizens of the common political struggles continued when he made the move to León, Guanajuato in 1872. There, along with his respected mentor, Pedroza, he ran a print shop and provided illustrations for a magazine named “El Jicote” or The Hornet. Through this publication, Posada showcased his exceptional designs and delved more into satirizing the prominent political issues and figures of the time.

"Calavera Zapatista"

For several years, Posada worked side-by-side with Pedroza until he bought him out and pursued his interests down a solo track. He continued living and working in León until the catastrophic flood of 1887 prompted him to relocate to Mexico City.

With several years of seasoned work under his belt, Posada quickly opened his own print shop and began producing images for a multitude of well-known publishers. One such publisher was Antonio Vanegas Arroyo, whom Posada would work closely with for many years. Though the work of the two involved many projects, they were best known for publishing their “hojas volantes” for a penny apiece. These were called broadsheets and showcased Posada’s work to the masses. In these leaflets, he exercised his expressive talents and maintained his passion for providing political satire, especially at the height of the tumultuous Porfirio Díaz regime. It was also during his collaborative time with Arroyo, that the artist’s signature “skeletal” prints would reach a larger audience in attempts to equalize a society divided by class and structure at the time.

Diego Rivera's homage to Posada, "Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park"

There’s no doubt Posada’s career was one of many twists and turns. But, as prolific as he was with his tremendous output of more than 20,000 images, it is his “surviving” creation, ironically, of the symbols hollowed out of life, which will have his work live on for years to come.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Museo José Guadalupe Posada

I am a contributing writer for the Mexico Today Project, which, along with Marca País – Imagen de México “ is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination.”

Disclaimer:  **Please note that I am being compensated for participation in this project and for attending its launch in Oaxaca. Also note that all posts and written contributions by me will be expressed in an unbiased form with all opinions reflecting my own.